jeudi 28 avril 2011

Localisation/ Where are we located

DiscusPassion se trouve à Shannon, en banlieue de Québec. Nous nous trouvons à 5 minutes de la base militaire de Valcartier. Nous sommes donc très facilement accessible par l'autoroute Henri IV Nord.

DiscusPassion is located at Shannon, near Quebec city. We're at 5 minutes from Valcartier military base. You can easily reach us by Henri IV Nord.

mercredi 27 avril 2011


Une commande sera effectuée sous peu et DiscusPassion aura la chance de vous rendre disponibles les Discus de M. Wayne Ng de Hong Kong! Wayne est connu pour ses superbes variétés ainsi que pour la grosseur de ses poissons; on peut penser au Blue Night, Sunrise Eruption, Leopard Maze, Reflection Deep... pour ne nommer que ceux-là. Sa réputation n'est plus à faire; Wayne est au Discus ce que Ferrarri est à l'automobile...

Si vous voulez vous assurer qu'on aille en mains la variété et la grosseur de Discus Wayne que vous désirez, passez une pré-commande à en nous indiquant:

Méthode de paiement: (PayPal ou argent comptant)
Contact: (courriel et/ou numéro de téléphone)
Méthode de cueillette: (sur place ou shipping)

Lorsque nous aurons reçu ces informations, nous pourrons vous retourner un courriel vous indiquant les prix, dépendamment si vous venez chercher sur place ou si nous devons inclure un shipping.  Vous aurez alors le choix de poursuivre ou de modifier votre commande. À noter que nous livrons partout à travers le Canada; il est donc très simple de faire affaires avec nous.


An order will be made pretty soon and DiscusPassion will have the chance to get Discus from Wayne Ng from Hong Kong!

If you want to make sure we have the strain and size you're looking for, just pre-order at, writing down those infos:

Payment method: (PayPal or cash)
Contact: (e-mail and/or phone number)
Possession: (pick up or shipping)

When we get those infos, we'll be able to e-mail you back with prices including shipping, if necessary. Then, you'll be able to continue with your order, change it or decline. Please note that we ship across Canada, so it is very simple to do business with us.

Best regards,

DiscusPassion team


Voici quelques photos du Fishroom. Celles-ci datent un peu puisque les bacs contenaient alors des cichlids; mais c'est tout de même facile à imaginer avec de beaux gros Discus :) À noter que les bacs du bas sont normalement couverts afin de ne pas stresser les poissons.

Bacs nus:

16 x 15 gallons
4 x 20 gallons
3 x 66 gallons
2 x 108 gallons
1 x 130 gallons

Mon bac planté personnel (pas sur photo): 1 x 150 gallons

Bonne visite!

Here are some photos of the fishroom. At the time those pics were taken, the tanks were containing cichlids; but easy to imagine with beautiful Discus! Please note that the bottom tanks are normally covered, not to stress Discus.

Fishroom tanks:

16 x 15 gallons
4 x 20 gallons
3 x 66 gallons
2 x 108 gallons
1 x 130 gallons

My own personnal tank (not shown on the pics): planted 150 gallons

Have a nice visit!

How To Choose Discus Tankmates

Picking the perfect tank mates is super easy. Why? Because there are not many to select from! Discus require plenty of space to swim about and claim as there own territory. Avoiding naturally territorial tank mates goes a long way to keeping happy and healthy Discus.
In this article we talk about what fish make the perfect tank mates for Discus and some not so obvious choices to avoid.

What Makes The Perfect Tank Mate?

If we ask this question from a Discus perspective the answer may sound something like, “A perfect tank mate is one that leaves me alone and doesn’t eat all my food.”
Almost all fish are aggressively territorial, I am not saying that they are all aggressive, but aggressively territorial. What I mean by that is most tropical fish will carve out a small section of the tank to claim as their own. For Discus this is not a good thing, especially because they tend to enjoy drifting through out the tank and hanging out where ever they choose.

What Fish Do Well With Discus?

Although most Discus have been bred in a controlled environment, long since removed from its natural origins, one must not forget them. Discus in the wild swim among many fish including a very colorful and harmless fish called Tetra!
Yes there are several varieties of Tetra’s and in my experience the best to be kept with Discus have been Cardinal and Lamp Eye Tetra’s. These two create stunning schools and keep a very low key type of presence in the tank. Most of the time, like the Discus they tend to drift from one side of the tank to the other. These Tetra’s are also not known to be veracious eaters and will not compete for food with your Discus.
One sure fire tank mate that never fails is the Cory Cat (aka Corydoras). Cory’s spend most of their time under the Discus radar in search of food between the gravel and under plants. When not looking for food they tend to settle in a spot and not move for some time, then before you know it they are scooting around again. Cory’s make great tank mates for Discus and help keep the tank a bit cleaner.

Fish To Avoid

Fish of similar or greater size than your Discus: Any fish that will compete aggressively with your Discus for food or space is no good. Any fish that will grow larger and more demanding than your Discus is no good. This includes flower horns, African cichlids, angelfish, oscars, etc…

Fish that are aggressive eaters: Most Discus will compete for food to a degree, but for your Discus to thrive it must be the largest and most fed fish in the tank.

Any sucker mouthed fish: Although I have never experienced it, “discus pros” claim that sucker fish will develop a taste for Discus slime. In my experience sucker mouthed fish usually get introduced into a tank to clean up algae. What ends up happening is they enjoy eating the Discus food and will stop eating algae. Occasionally becoming aggressive and territorial about the food and space in the tank.
Loaches: The only reason I mention loaches is because I introduced on into my planted Discus tank. I had a huge snail problem and loaches I read where supposed to be good at bringing snail numbers down. Loaches though turned out to be really aggressive eaters and got super fat! Once I decided to remove the loaches I practically had to remove all the plants and dismantle the tank in order to catch them. As it turns out the fat lazy loaches can dart around and swim fast when they have to. This cause a huge mess and stressed out my Discus. Just sayin…

High energy fish that zig zag everywhere: Danios are the perfect example of this as well as some larger Tetras and even Rasboras to an extent. What these fish enjoy doing is fin nipping, why exactly they enjoy this is unknown to me. Fin nipping can lead to fin loss and eventually infection to fish that are not used to being nipped, in this case Discus.

Questions For You

What tank mates have you found perfect for your Discus?
What tank mates have turned out to be a nightmare for you and your Discus?
What do you think makes the perfect tank mate?

Source: Discus Guide

Are Discus Fish Hard To Keep Alive?

Discus fish have a very bad reputation for being difficult to keep alive. Discus are probably on the higher end of the price range so careful consideration of what is required to keep Discus is needed.
In this article we will tell you the truth and answer the question of whether Discus fish are truly hard to keep alive.

Getting Some Fresh Perspective

Let’s go to extreme’s for a moment and venture into the dog world. Most everyone is familiar with the giant Great Dane and the smaller Chihuahua. Deciding between both these dogs requires several obvious decisions before bringing one of them home. Some of them would be:
  • Do you have enough space in your home?
  • Are you going to be able to afford feeding the dog?
  • What extra doctor fees will I pay for having a larger dog versus a smaller dog
And so on… The same can be said about Discus fish. Deciding to keep Discus over Tetras or Oscars require you to understand the difference in care each species requires for a long healthy life.
Discus are no harder to keep alive than any other tropical fish when the proper knowledge and commitment is in place.

Discus Special Requirements

It is true, Discus require a bit more time and preparation. It is not as simple as sprinkling in some flake food and adding water only when half the tank has evaporated.
Here are some important points to consider about Discus:
  • Discus require frequent water changes. Note, frequency does not equal volume of water. If you decide to change 100% or 20% at a time, the point is to keep consistent frequency of the water changes. No more than once a day, no less than once a week.
  • Discus need friendly tank mates who will not challenge them for food. Discus do great with smaller fish like Lamp Eye Tetras and Coryodoras. Discus will not do well with aggressive dominate fish like Angelfish or other cichlids.
  • Food must be a healthy variety of proteins like beefheart, krill and shrimp as well as vegetables and plants. Most are pre-packaged in frozen cube form. California Blackworms are a great source for live foods. Do not make the mistake of feeding the same food day after day, variety is key for growth and longevity.
  • Breeders and Tropical Fish Stores are key contributors of how healthy and how long your Discus will live. Pick your Discus sources wisely. As far as I know, in all of my experience, I do not know of a case where a Discus was saved from the brink of disease and lived a long healthy life. Nor have I ever seen a stunted Discus that should have been culled grow into a contest winning Discus. Be picky and ask a ton of questions about the Discus you want to buy. It’s your money and Discus are not cheap! Ask about the food that is fed to the Discus, how often is the water changed and so on.
These are just a few points to consider, if you have questions please ask them below in the comments.

Discus Are Easy To Keep Alive

Discus really are easy to keep alive, when those who choose to keep Discus as a hobby take the time to learn a bit before starting.
Keeping Discus as a hobby can be a very rewarding experience. Discus live for a very long time, they learn to recognize owners, can be hand fed and uniquely raise and feed their own fry.
Like anything you choose to take on in your life, take the time to learn as much about it as possible before taking on the commitment. I am certain thousands upon thousands of Discus have met their demise to inexperienced hobbyist who didn’t bother to read a book or search the internet for more information. And call it a guess, but I am pretty sure that these people are the first to complain about how delicate Discus are and how hard they are to keep.
Do your homework, Discus are great and easy to keep.

Questions For You

What questions do you have about Discus?
Have you kept Discus before?
What myths or rumors have you heard about Discus?

Source: Discus Guide

How To Select a Discus?

Because Discus cost a bit more than the average freshwater fish, Discus hobbyist have developed several key factors to use in order to find the best of the best. Some of the following points I learned the hard way, most though have been taught to me from experienced hobbyist.

  • Discus should be round shaped not wedge shaped. Either bad genetics or stunted growth is to blame for odd shaped Discus. Poor diet also contributes to this.
  • Discus stomachs should not look like they are pinched. This could mean the Discus is not eating or is sick.
  • Discus stomachs should not look bloated. This could mean that the Discus has a digestive blockage or worm infestation.
  • Discus eyes should be smaller in proportion to their body. When the eyes are large for the body size of the Discus it means its growth was stunted by bad nutrition. There is no cure for this, no matter how much you feed it.
  • Discus eyes should be clear not cloudy or dark. Cloudy eyes can be a sign of poor health or stress.
  • Discus fins should be spread out and erect, not clamped down. Fins that are clamped down can be a sign of a stressed and sick Discus.
  • Discus body color should be vibrant and bright not dark or black. Dark or black Discus that are not carrying fry are either stressed or sick.
  • Discus should approach the glass of the tank when a hand is placed near the tank (not tapping). Approaching the tank glass is a sign of a happy Discus with a good appetite.
  • Discus fins should be intact, not torn. Torn fins can be a sign of nipping or poor health.
  • Discus should not have white or long stringy waste. This can mean internal parasites
Source: Discus Guide

How To Quarantine Discus?

It is vital that you quarantine Discus after purchase. Parasites can invade and destroy your happy Discus environment in days. With just a few extra precautions you can avoid disaster.
Read how to quarantine your Discus and what to look for before you buy Discus. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Why Quarantine Discus

I am as guilty as the next person. I will admit that when I started out with Discus, I would take them from the bag and put them straight into my tank. After all the point of buying the Discus was to enjoy watching it in my tank, right?
All was well in the beginning until I changed my source of Discus. I went to a new place, all I wanted was more Discus! I lost all rational thinking, in fact, I didn’t look for signs of illness or care very much about the environment. I just wanted a new Discus.
I went home and placed the new Discus in my tank with all the others. Later that week, sometime after feeding, I noticed long string white waste coming from the new Discus. How long had this been going on? Is this Discus sick? Will my other Discus get sick as well?
Sure enough, after some time, the new Discus stopped eating. After a few more days it died. Then followed the others, with similar symptoms and not knowing what to do, they all died.
That is my story. I am sure countless others have experienced something similar. Back then I didn’t have the internet and books were scarce. Yep, no either! I tried going to the local fish store, they avoided the questions. They even got offended! I remember them saying that Discus were very delicate and difficult fish. Now I know better, Discus are neither delicate nor difficult, had I just taken a few extra steps. Here is what I learned.

How To Quarantine Discus

Quarantine means you are going to have another tank on standby for new fish to live in for a few weeks to observe for parasites or health issues. Here is the basic list of what you will need:
  • Spare tank with cycled water. 10 gallon or 20 gallon will do.
  • Tank hood to keep Discus from jumping out.
  • Submersible heater
  • Sponge filter
  • Air pump
This is a bare bones system. No fancy stuff, just simple.
No gravel in this tank at all! Keep the tank super clean. The point of this tank is to provide a simple way for you to observe the health of your new Discus.
What to observe:
  • Fish Waste must be observed for some time. You want to make sure no worms, tapeworms or other digestive issues exist.
  • Food consumption must be observed. If the Discus is not eating it may have problems.
  • Body fungus or injuries. Look for fin rot, cuts or scrapes and medicate if needed.
By keeping the new Discus in a separate tank you can also adjust parameters to help the new Discus heal or recover from infection, parasites or stress.
  • Raising the temperature a few degrees is known to stimulate appetite. Also some parasites are known to die off in warmer waters.
  • Adding aquarium salt also helps reduce Discus stress. A smaller tank means less salt and more direct impact.
  • Medicating is much easier and cost effective. Should you find parasites, treatment will be simpler in a quarantine tank than if you had to treat your main established tank.

    Questions For You

    Do you have a Quarantine/Hospital tank setup? Have you ever found parasites in your Discus? What treatments have worked for you? Source: Discus Guide